Sheet-Pan Caponata With Cod

Whenever I have a glut of late summer produce, I make a big batch of caponata, a Sicilian eggplant dish bolstered with tomatoes, celery, capers, and sometimes carrots or bell peppers. (Some would say it's the Italian version of ratatouille.) Caponata has a thick, stew-like texture; the dish is typically served as part of an antipasto plate or paired with bread, fish, or pasta. It’s traditionally made on the stove in a large Dutch oven or pot, requiring frequent stirring to prevent burning. This summer, though, I've turned to my trusty sheet pan for a more hands-off approach.

My sheet-pan version couldn't be easier: Chop up the vegetables, roast them until they're soft, then lightly mash them with some capers, olives, fresh parsley, and a drizzle of olive oil and red wine vinegar. This helps marry the flavors and creates a slightly saucy consistency that mimics the traditional version. 

Even when scooped onto thick slices of crusty bread, caponata is hardly a full meal; in fact, it’s generally considered to be a relish. That said, a few fish fillets are all it takes to transform this flavorful side into a simple, satisfying dinner. I prefer cod for its mild flavor and velvety texture, but another white fish, such as halibut or haddock, will work well too. Once the vegetables come out of the oven, you'll cook the fish on the same sheet pan, keeping cleanup minimal.

Roast the Veggies Hot and Fast, Then Cook the Fish Low and Slow

When cooking caponata on a sheet pan, there's a risk the vegetables will turn out dry and crisp rather than soft and juicy. This is because the pan's low sides leave its contents especially exposed to the oven's hot air. To mitigate this, I use high-moisture vegetables, such as eggplant and cherry tomatoes, skipping the carrots and celery found in traditional versions, which dry out easily in the oven. The vegetables are roasted at a relatively high temperature of 400°F (204°C), which softens them quickly. You'll want to turn the oven way down when it's time to cook the cod, though.

Cod makes an ideal canvas for the punchy, sweet-and-sour caponata, as the mild fish doesn't compete with the caponata's bold flavor. But cod and other white fish fillets are also notoriously easy to overcook. To minimize that risk, I reduce the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C), so the fish can bake low and slow. Brushing the fillets with some olive oil also helps keep them moist. Keep in mind that the actual cooking time will vary greatly depending on the thickness of your fish—you'll know it's done when the fish feels firm to the touch and flakes easily with a fork. You can also use an instant-read thermometer to test doneness: You're looking for 140°F (60°C) at the thickest part of the fillet.

For Proper Agrodolce Flavor, Season Assertively

Caponata is often described as "agrodolce," an Italian term for assertively sweet-and-sour dishes. Many recipes call for golden raisins or currants to provide that signature sweetness, but I don’t always keep them on hand. Instead, I simply add a few teaspoons of good old-fashioned sugar, which enhances the natural sweetness of the roasted peppers and tomatoes and is balanced with a healthy splash of red wine vinegar. A generous amount of salt is also key to a robustly flavored dish. 

As the fish cooks, the caponata rests and marinates, allowing the vegetables to soak up the sweet, vinegary dressing and the flavors to meld. Don’t worry about it cooling down: Caponata is a dish that tastes best at room temperature.

Serve with Crusty Bread, Pearl Couscous, or a Hearty Grain

Serve this dish as soon as the cod comes out of the oven, as the fish will dry out the longer it sits. Divide the caponata among plates, then top with a fillet or place it alongside. Pearl couscous or crusty bread make great vehicles for soaking up any extra sauce, but a hearty grain, such as pearl barley or farro, would be nice, too. Finish with a drizzle of your fanciest olive oil for a peppery note—it's the perfect finishing touch.