Serious Eats/ Qi Ai
Why It Works
- Letting the dough rest for at least 30 minutes (or up to one day) before rolling relaxes the gluten, making the dough easier to stretch and less prone to springing back.
- Wrapping and stretching the dough around a long, thin wooden dowel applies even pressure, allowing the phyllo to be rolled thin without tearing.
Homemade phyllo is one of the most enjoyable—and underrated—cooking techniques I know. Despite its delicate appearance, it is far more approachable than most people expect. While it's not a quick weeknight project, learning how to make phyllo dough at home can become a satisfying weekend ritual, a reliable dinner-party skill, and a foundational technique that opens the door to an entire category of Greek cooking.
When I first started making phyllo at home, I was intimidated. I assumed that Greek pies made from scratch were the domain of professional bakers and grandmothers with decades of experience. Before living in Greece, my exposure to Greek pies was largely limited to frozen spanakopita triangles and boxed phyllo. While spanakopita may be the most recognizable Greek pie outside of Greece, it represents only a small slice of a much broader culinary tradition.
Thinking of Greek pie as synonymous with boxed phyllo and spinach filling would be like assuming Italian pasta begins and ends with dried spaghetti and Bolognese sauce. Greek pies—pites—span countless regions, fillings, thicknesses, and techniques. Spanakopita just happens to be the breakout star.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
What Is Phyllo?
In Greek, the suffix pita simply means "pie." Spanakopita is a compound of spanaki (spinach) and pita (pie), and nearly all Greek pies follow this naming convention. Phyllo (or filo) means "leaf" or "sheet," a reference to the thin layers of dough used to encase these fillings. Rolling the dough is often described as "opening the leaves."
Phyllo for Greek pies is dough that is rolled or stretched into sheets of varying thickness, then filled, shaped, and baked—or in some cases, fried. While commercial phyllo is typically rolled paper-thin, homemade phyllo ranges from translucent to thicker, more rustic sheets, depending on the style of pie and regional tradition. My version below strikes a balance between ease and authenticity. It's thin enough to layer and crisp, but sturdy enough for first-time phyllo makers to roll and stretch with confidence.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
Why Make Phyllo at Home
In the US, most frozen boxed phyllo contains stabilizers and other additional ingredients beyond flour, water, and oil. In Greece, it's common to find frozen phyllo from local bakers made with far simpler ingredient lists. Boxed phyllo absolutely has its place, but once you've tasted homemade phyllo—the flavor, the texture, the tenderness—it's difficult not to notice the difference.
More importantly, making phyllo at home is about developing a skill. The ingredient list is short; the real work and fun is in learning how the dough feels, stretches, and responds to pressure—knowledge that comes with practice. Confidence and repetition matter just as much as the flour and water. Rolling—or "opening"—the dough requires physical familiarity. You learn what properly kneaded dough feels like, when it needs rest, when it needs moisture, and how far it can be pushed.
After teaching many people how to make phyllo, I've found that the biggest obstacles are fear and over-delicacy. The finished sheets may be thin and elegant, but the process does not require a gentle hand. This dough is forgiving and surprisingly difficult to ruin. Treat your first few attempts like first dates—you're getting to know each other. With time, even novice cooks become comfortable reading the dough and responding to it.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
The Tools You'll Need
This recipe serves as an entry point to traditional phyllo-making with a long, thin wooden dowel, known in Greek as a plastis. This tool allows the dough to be wrapped and stretched evenly, producing thin sheets that can become nearly translucent. In commercial settings, phyllo is often stretched across large tables or padded surfaces by hand, similar to strudel dough, but the dowel method is far more practical for home cooks.
While it's possible to use a standard rolling pin, shorter or thicker pins make wrapping and stretching more difficult. A French rolling pin with tapered ends is particularly ill-suited here, as it encourages uneven stretching. A long, straight pin gives you the most control. (Check out Serious Eats' review of rolling pins for suggestions.)
A Note On the Olive Oil
This recipe uses a generous amount of olive oil, both in the dough and throughout the pie-making process. That's intentional. Greek cooking embraces abundance, especially when it comes to olive oil. Use a good-quality everyday olive oil—one that tastes buttery and clean—but save your expensive finishing oils for another application. Peppery or aggressively floral oils can overwhelm the dough.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
How to Use This Recipe
My recipe focuses on making phyllo dough and learning the technique of rolling and stretching it by hand. Once you're comfortable with the process, the dough can be used for a wide range of Greek pies with both savory and sweet fillings.
I've structured the recipe to allow for advance preparation. The dough can be rested for as little as 30 minutes or held for up to one day, which helps make the rolling process easier and more manageable as it relaxes the gluten in the dough. Fillings can also be prepared ahead of time, allowing you to focus entirely on stretching and assembling the phyllo when it's time to bake.
For first-time pie makers, a round metal baking dish (9 to 11 inches) is the easiest shape to work with. As your comfort level grows, the dough can be scaled up and adapted to larger pans or different shapes.
Making phyllo at home is deeply rewarding. It's a technique that improves with repetition and invites creativity once you're proficient. With time, you'll be able to improvise fillings, adjust thickness, and explore the vast, varied world of Greek pies with confidence.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
Recipe Details
Homemade Phyllo Dough Recipe
Ingredients
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255 g bread flour (9 ounces; 2 cups), plus more for dusting
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1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half by volume
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1 tablespoon (30 ml) apple cider vinegar or rice vinegar
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2 tablespoons (30 ml), plus 1 teaspoon olive oil
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1/2 cup (120 ml) room temperature water, plus more if needed
Directions
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For Making the Dough: In a large bowl, combine flour, salt, vinegar. and 2 tablespoons olive oil and whisk to combine. While mixing with one hand, slowly drizzle in 1/2 cup water. Combine with hands until rough, shaggy dough starts to form and dry bits of flour remain at bottom of bowl.
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Add additional water, if needed,1 teaspoon at a time until dough forms into a ball and is not sticking to hands or bowl. If dough feels wet or sticky, dust 1/2 teaspoon flour into bowl and knead to incorporate. If dough feels dry or tough and is tearing easily, wet hand with water and slowly incorporate moisture into dough while kneading until soft but not sticking to hands.
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Transfer dough to a clean work surface. Knead dough using heel of hand, pressing into dough ball to push dough forward. Knead until dough is smooth to the touch, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer dough back into bowl. Pour remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil on top of dough and use hand to spread over dough ball. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or transfer to an airtight container and allow to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. Alternatively, refrigerate dough for up to 24 hours before shaping. Bring to room temperature, about 2 hours, before continuing with recipe.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
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For Rolling Out the Phyllo: Transfer dough to a clean work surface and knead a few times to work any excess olive oil into dough. Cut dough into four roughly equal pieces. Shape each piece into a ball by swirling in circular motion on the counter. Set dough pieces aside and cover with a kitchen towel.
Serious Eats/ Qi Ai
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Lightly flour work surface. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, use a thin wooden rolling dowel or rolling pin to roll out dough, turning one quarter turn to the right after each roll, to maintain circular shape. When dough is rolled out to about 5 inches (approximately the diameter of a hand), dust both sides with flour and set aside. Repeat with remaining dough balls. Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
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Take one of the rested dough rounds and roll it a few more times, as before, until it reaches about 6 inches in diameter. Wrap dough snuggly around dowel or rolling pin. Dough should be tautly wrapped around the pin.
Serious Eats / Qi Ai
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Using fingertips and palms of hands, roll the pin back and forth while pressing gently and sliding your hands outward toward the ends of the pin. When your hands reach the outer edges of the dough, stop.
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Unwrap the dough, rotate it a quarter turn to the right, then re-wrap it around the pin and repeat the rolling motion. Each pass stretches the dough gradually thinner and wider. Continue rolling, unwrapping, and rotating in the same direction to maintain an even shape.
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After several passes, the dough will noticeably expand in size. Lightly dust with flour only as needed to prevent sticking—too much flour will make stretching more difficult. If the dough sticks to itself or tears, simply pinch it together to patch. The phyllo sheet is ready when it reaches about 12 inches in diameter. The shape does not need to be perfectly round. Set aside and repeat steps to roll out remaining dough sheets. Use dough immediately.
Serious Eats/ Qi Ai
Special Equipment
Thin wooden pastry dowel for rolling
Make-Ahead and Storage
The dough can be made through step 3 and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 24 hours.
| Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
|---|---|
| 129 | Calories |
| 1g | Fat |
| 25g | Carbs |
| 4g | Protein |
| Nutrition Facts | |
|---|---|
| Servings: 6 to 8 | |
| Amount per serving | |
| Calories | 129 |
| % Daily Value* | |
| Total Fat 1g | 1% |
| Saturated Fat 0g | 1% |
| Cholesterol 0mg | 0% |
| Sodium 80mg | 3% |
| Total Carbohydrate 25g | 9% |
| Dietary Fiber 1g | 3% |
| Total Sugars 0g | |
| Protein 4g | |
| Vitamin C 0mg | 0% |
| Calcium 6mg | 0% |
| Iron 0mg | 2% |
| Potassium 37mg | 1% |
| *The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. | |