Besan Chilla (Savory Indian Chickpea Pancake)

I have a sweet tooth, and at breakfast, I tend to prefer muffins and French toast over scrambled eggs and avocado toast. The only savory dish I make an exception for is chilla, a savory Indian chickpea pancake that holds a special place in my heart. Made from besan, a finely milled chickpea flour, chilla are thin and crepe-like with frizzled edges, and have a rich nuttiness and plenty of warmth from cumin, turmeric, and chile powder.

Chillas were a part of the leisurely Saturday morning breakfasts I enjoyed with my parents growing up. The hectic rush before school on weekdays meant breakfast was usually something quick, such as toast, cereal, or, if the situation was especially dire, a Pop-Tart hastily eaten in the car. Weekends were for hot, savory Indian breakfasts: My mom would make pohé (flattened rice), upma (a semolina porridge), or chille, and serve them with achaar (Indian pickles) and a green chutney. My family would linger at the table with cups of chai, with ‘90s Bollywood music softly playing in the background.

Today, chillas are my go-to when I’m scrounging for a vegan breakfast option, whether it's because I’m trying to reduce my animal product consumption or eggs are exorbitantly expensive. It's also what I make when there is barely anything in my pantry or fridge: All you need is chickpea flour, water, and a few other staples. Like an omelette or scramble, chillas are protein-rich, versatile, and an excellent vehicle for whatever fresh herbs and vegetables you have on hand. (It's even a sunny yellow, thanks to a smidge of turmeric.)

While I keep mine classic with cilantro, red onion, and tomato, which is what's typically used to prepare chilla, you can think of the batter as a blank canvas. Produce that has long lingered in your fridge—such as a lonely carrot, semi-dessicated radish, or bag of herbs or leafy greens—can be chopped into pea-size pieces, then folded into the batter. Grated paneer would also make a delicious addition. Whatever you do, don't skip the ginger and cumin: Chickpea flour can sometimes have a very mild bitterness that is nicely balanced by these two warm spices.

A note on the batter: The absorbency of chickpea flour can vary widely from brand to brand. You’re looking for the consistency of a loose pancake or crêpe batter that’s pourable and spreadable. Start with a half cup of water, and if it’s too thick, add more, one tablespoon at a time, until it's thin enough to pour. You can whip up the batter the night before, but you’ll have to give it a good stir before cooking, as the besan will separate and settle to the bottom. 

However you choose to make it, chilla is a comforting, nourishing dish that's endlessly riffable. It may traditionally be a breakfast dish, but don't let that stop you from enjoying it for lunch or dinner.