Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Why It Works
- Potato flakes in the dough hold moisture for a soft, tender crumb that stays plush even after baking.
- Gradually adding softened—not melted—butter ensures gluten develops properly, building structure for a higher rise and lighter texture.
The most memorable roll I've ever had was at a dinner table in Seaman, Ohio, sometime in the '90s, and it was a cloverleaf.
I couldn't have been more than 10 years old, but I still remember swiping a piece of that roll through the mess of mashed potatoes, gravy, and green bean potlikker on my plate. In my memory, it was as soft and pillowy as a doughnut, with a golden-brown crust and a cottony crumb.
That was one of the experiences that taught me just how good scratch-made food could be—and how many freshly baked rolls I could put away in a sitting.
To be clear, a cloverleaf roll is just a dinner roll divided into three parts and baked together in a muffin tin. But that structure offers more than a retro visual. There's a practical advantage: A cloverleaf roll can be pulled apart into three distinct, pillowy bites without crushing the crumb—no tearing (or slicing) required. Think monkey bread, but for sopping up gravy.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Engineering the Perfect Dinner Roll
Getting my cloverleaf rolls right meant striking a balance between tenderness and rise, to achieve the soft, cottony crumb I remembered. Here's how I did it:
- Start with bread flour. Using bread flour instead of all-purpose flour raises the protein content of the dough, which strengthens gluten and supports a higher rise. That extra strength helps the rolls rise high even though the dough is enriched with butter, milk, egg, sugar, and potato, all of which weaken gluten.
- Add potato flakes. Potato starch holds onto moisture, which gives the rolls a tender crumb and helps them stay soft and squishy longer. Instant flakes are the easiest way to harness the effect. (Make sure to buy unseasoned potato flakes.)
- Choose whole milk instead of water. Milk enriches the dough in two ways:with fat that tenderizes the crumb, and lactose (milk sugar) that caramelizes for a golden, glossy crust. Compared to water, it gives the rolls more flavor and a softer texture.
- Use plenty of butter… Butter does double duty in this recipe: It enriches the dough for tenderness and better flavor, then adds shine and color when brushed on after baking. Why work softened butter into the dough instead of just pouring in melted? We're prioritizing the rise again. Melted butter coats the flour instantly, blocking hydration and limiting gluten development. Softened butter, meanwhile, blends into the dough gradually during mixing. That slower incorporation lets the flour fully hydrate and the gluten develop before the fat disperses, so the rolls bake up lighter and fluffier.
- …and more than a spoonful of sugar. Sugar doesn't just add flavor. It feeds the yeast for a higher rise and encourages browning in the oven.
- Don't forget the egg. A single egg adds a few key elements to the dough: fat for richness, lecithin for emulsification and tenderness, and protein that sets during baking to give the crumb a gentle structure. It deepens the color, adds flavor, and helps keep the interior, once again, soft and light.
- Allow time for an overnight cold proof (optional). A rest in the fridge develops deeper flavor and gives the yeast more time to work, resulting in better oven spring. Long, slow fermentation also relaxes the gluten, making the dough easier to shape and producing a more even crumb. And if you’re cooking for a crowd, it gives you flexibility: You can shape the rolls the night before, then pull them out of the refrigerator an hour and a half before you’re ready to bake.
Serve these rolls warm, with more softened butter and something gravied.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Recipe Details
Buttery Pull-Apart Cloverleaf Dinner Rolls
Ingredients
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420 g (3½ cups) bread flour
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42 g (3/4 cup) unseasoned potato flakes, such as Bob's Red Mill
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50 g (1/4 cup) granulated sugar
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9 g (1 tablespoon) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or the same weight
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6 g (2 teaspoons) instant yeast
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8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces, 6 tablespoons softened and 2 tablespoons reserved for melting
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1 large egg (50 g), room temperature
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1 ¼ cups whole milk (284 g), room temperature
Directions
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In the bowl of a stand mixer, add flour, potato flakes, sugar, salt, and yeast. Fit mixer with dough hook and on low speed, mix briefly to combine. Add 5 tablespoons butter (71 g), egg, and milk, and mix on low speed with dough hook until dough begins to come together, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium-low and knead until the dough is smooth, elastic, and passes the windowpane test, about 10 minutes.The dough will feel soft and tacky, but it should not be so sticky that it’s hard to handle.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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Transfer dough to a lightly greased medium bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let rise at room temperature until roughly doubled in size, about 90 minutes.
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Turn dough out onto a clean work surface. Pat dough into a roughly 10x12-inch rectangle and cut into four long strips, then cut each strip into three equal sections for 12 pieces. Cut each of those into three smaller pieces for 36 portions, about 24 g each. (I recommend weighing them, for accuracy and consistency.) Form each piece into a tight ball, pinching the seam closed.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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Grease the wells of a 12-cup muffin pan with 1 tablespoon softened butter. Gently press three balls into each well, seam-side-down. You don't want to smash them into the pan, but each should touch the bottom of the well, and they should be evenly distributed. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let rise until puffy and slightly above the rim of the pan, about 60 to 90 minutes. (Alternatively, for more flavor and a better rise, cover shaped rolls tightly, transfer them to the refrigerator, and cold-proof them for 8 to 24 hours.) Remove them from the refrigerator 1 1/2 hours before baking.)
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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About 30 minutes before baking, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat the oven to 350°F (17°C). Bake rolls until they are risen and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Microwave the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small bowl until fully melted, 30 to 60 seconds. Using a pastry brush, brush rolls generously with melted butter while still warm, then let them cool for 10 minutes in the pan. Serve immediately or remove from the pan and transfer to a wire rack to finish cooling.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Special Equipment
Stand mixer with dough hook attachment, 12-cup muffin tin
Make-Ahead and Storage
Shaped and unbaked rolls can be refrigerated for 8 to 24 hours and baked the next day. (See instructions above.)
Baked rolls will keep for up to 2 days in a sealed bag or container at room temperature, though they'll never be as soft and fluffy as they are immediately after baking. For best results, warm them in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 5 to 7 minutes or a microwave on high for 30 seconds before serving.
Baked rolls can also be frozen in an airtight container for up to 2 months. When ready to enjoy, preheat the oven to 350°F 175°C) , wrap the rolls tightly in aluminum foil, and bake them until warmed through, about 15 minutes.
| Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
|---|---|
| 275 | Calories |
| 10g | Fat |
| 40g | Carbs |
| 7g | Protein |
| Nutrition Facts | |
|---|---|
| Servings: 12 | |
| Amount per serving | |
| Calories | 275 |
| % Daily Value* | |
| Total Fat 10g | 12% |
| Saturated Fat 5g | 27% |
| Cholesterol 38mg | 13% |
| Sodium 551mg | 24% |
| Total Carbohydrate 40g | 15% |
| Dietary Fiber 2g | 5% |
| Total Sugars 6g | |
| Protein 7g | |
| Vitamin C 0mg | 1% |
| Calcium 42mg | 3% |
| Iron 1mg | 3% |
| Potassium 153mg | 3% |
| *The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. | |