Chicken Enchiladas Negras

My biggest regret in life is all the times I turned down enchiladas growing up. I had an aversion to all things saucy (yes, that included tomato sauce on pizza). So, my thoughtful mother would appease my picky eating with the dry, deep-fried relative of enchiladas, flautas. Today, I'm a sauce-lover and often opt to add multiple sauces to a single dish. These enchiladas negras, which translates to black enchiladas, are dipped and rolled in a deeply savory, smoky, dark salsa made from charred tomatoes, earthy dried chiles, and sweet, umami-packed black garlic. 

Tortillas are briefly warmed in lard, dipped in the salsa, then filled with tender chicken—store-bought rotisserie for a quick weeknight option, or homemade if you prefer. The result is a plate of tender, saucy enchiladas that are rich and complex without being heavy, a delicious contrast of spice, sweetness, and smoke.

The Salsa

The inky color of the salsa comes from the combination of pasilla negro and chile de árbol, the same dried black chiles that star in my mole negro recipe. Here, they provide a fruity, earthy flavor and also help thicken the sauce once blended. 

The foundation of the recipe is umami-rich black garlic, which adds a sweet fruitiness. It makes these enchiladas go from good to unforgettable. Made by slowly fermenting whole garlic bulbs at low temperatures for several weeks, black garlic develops a deep brown color and a soft, jammy texture. Its flavor is both sweet and savory, often compared to tamarind and dates. The black garlic layers well with the charred tomato and onion, which all together boost the savoriness of the salsa. You can find black garlic at well-stocked supermarkets, Asian grocery stores, or online. If you can't get your hands on it, regular roasted garlic will give you some of the same mellow sweetness, though the flavor won't be as complex or darkly rich.

Why I Skip the Oven

Many enchilada recipes, especially the kind popular in the US, are made casserole-style, where the tortillas are rolled around a filling, smothered in cheese and sauce, and baked until bubbling. These are delicious, and a convenient way to make a lot of enchiladas to feed a crowd, but I find the high, dry heat of the oven robs the tortillas of their tenderness, over-crisping the edges and muting the flavor of the sauce. I prefer the traditional stovetop method used across Mexico, where each tortilla is briefly fried until just softened, dipped in sauce, and filled right before serving. This creates enchiladas that are delicate, saucy, and deeply flavorful, with every bite tasting of the chile-rich salsa rather than just baked cheese. Some people do it the other way around, where the tortillas are dipped in sauce before frying. 

I learned the technique watching my tias (aunts) make enchiladas Michoacanas, a comforting dish from Mexico's Michoacán state. Unlike baked enchiladas, they feature a very delicate, tender tortilla that is often heated on a dry comal or skillet with a touch of lard for a savory depth. 

Serving Suggestions

My favorite part of enchiladas is loading them up at the table. I like to let the sauce take center stage, so I stick to toppings that complement rather than compete with its bold, smoky flavor. A drizzle of crema and a sprinkle of queso fresco or cotija add a cooling creaminess, while thinly sliced cabbage and onion provide a fresh crunch. It's a simple finish that keeps the focus on that unforgettable black salsa.