Serious Eats / Elizabeth Barbone
Why It Works
- Apples are lightly cooked before being added to the dough. This cooks them just enough so that when the doughnuts are quick-fried, they aren't too crunchy or too soft.
- Leavened with yeast, the fritter dough is chewy, something you don't always get in gluten-free baked goods.
- A small amount of dough is dropped into the hot oil. This ensures that the fritters cook all the way through and aren't raw in the center, a problem with larger fritters.
The last apple fritter I ate before going gluten-free was an abomination. I bought it at a cute bakery. It looked a little smoother than a traditional apple fritter but I didn't think much about it one way or the other. Then I bit into the fritter and—What the hell?—apple pie filling burst into my mouth.
Apple fritters should not be jelly doughnuts in which the jam is merely replaced with an apple filling. No, an apple fritter is a nubby affair with crisp bits of chopped apples scattered throughout and just the slightest hint of confectioner's glaze.
For years, I've meant to make a gluten-free apple fritter. The only thing standing in my way? My own laziness. Apple fritters sounded like a lot of work and I just didn't feel like futzing with them.
This year, I set my laziness aside (not an easy task) and heated up a pot of oil. The results were meh—the fritters tasted like apple doughnuts and not fritters. I texted a professional baker-friend and asked what I was doing wrong.
Here's our exchange:
Me: My apple fritters taste like doughnuts. Blerg.
Steve: ?
Me: I want to make commercial-like apple fritters and I'm getting apple-studded flat doughnuts.
Steve: How are you leavening?
Me: Baking powder.
Steve: Use yeasted dough. Laminate the filling into the dough. Roll and cut into small pieces, then press together. We use leftover dough.
Me: MIND BLOWN.
Steve: Don't use pie filling. That's crap. Fresh apples. Sautéed. Apple cider and thicken. Done. You're welcome.
Me: Thank you!!!
It's funny. Even though the recipe now sounded 100x more complicated than I originally anticipated, I suddenly really wanted to make the fritters.
"A small amount of modified starch mimics a glutenous dough pretty well"
I did a little more digging and found some videos backed up exactly what Steve had described. But I knew the dough needed elasticity and I didn't want to rely solely on xanthan gum for it. So I grabbed a box of Chebe mix (it's made with tapioca starch and modified manioc flour) and added it to my flour blend. A small amount of modified starch mimics a glutenous dough pretty well. I'm just bummed that it's almost impossible for consumers to buy modified starch. To get it, you need to use a plain mix, like Chebe.
The dough rose nicely and rolled out nicely, but I ran into problems as I tried to cut the dough into small pieces and then work it back together. Without those lovely strands of gluten, the dough sort of smushed back together. The little squares of dough were lost. And the dough was incredibly hard to work with. It kept sticking to everything. Yet I kept moving forward, lying to myself that this would work.
It didn't.
The fritters burnt on the edges and were raw in the center. All the work of cutting the dough into pieces was lost too. The finished fritters were just like doughnuts with apple bits here and there.
Frustrated, I almost threw the remaining dough in the garbage. Then I looked at it, grabbed two spoons, and pulled off a little dough from one of the sloppily formed raw fritters. Perhaps size was my problem here. I made some new fritters, this time smaller, more like hush puppy size.
I let one cool, always a challenge with a hot-from-the-fryer doughnut before trying. It tasted good. Like a wheat-based fritter, it wasn't too sweet and contained bite-sized pieces of apples.
A few days later, I tried the fritters again. I skipped the messy process of laminating the apples into to the dough. Instead, I let the dough rise, punched it down, and then stirred cooked apples in. After another rise, I simply dropped small pieces of the dough into a hot fryer. Perfect.
I won't lie. Homemade apple fritters are a little time-consuming to make. However, the steps are just that—time-consuming, but not hard. For this recipe, you need gluten-free Chebe mix. You also need time. The dough takes several hours to rise and the filling is a two-step affair that requires time for cooling.
But, in the end, the fritters are totally worth it.
As I sat eating a fritter, I noticed that the yeast-raised dough tasted really great. Now I'm pondering what I can make with it beyond these fritters. Glazed doughnut holes, perhaps?
September 2014
Recipe Details
Gluten-Free Apple Fritters Recipe
Ingredients
For the Dough:
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1 (7.5 ounce) box Chebe original cheese bread mix (see note)
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1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) white rice flour
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1/2 cup (2 ounces) sweet rice flour
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1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) granulated sugar plus 1 teaspoon, divided
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1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
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1/2 teaspoon xanthan gum
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1/2 teaspoon salt
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1/4 cup water, warm
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1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
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1 cup milk, warm
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1 large egg
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2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled
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1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
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Oil or nonstick cooking spray for greasing the bowl
For the Apples:
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2 tablespoons butter
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4 tablespoons dark brown sugar
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3 large cooking apples, peeled, cored, and diced (about 3 1/2 cups total) (Granny Smith work best)
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1/2 cup apple cider
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2 1/2 teaspoons corn starch
For Frying:
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2 cups vegetable oil
For the Glaze:
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2 cups confectioners sugar
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4 tablespoons half-and-half
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1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Directions
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For the Dough: In large bowl, whisk together Chebe mix, white rice flour, sweet rice flour, 1/4 cup granulated sugar, cinnamon, xanthan gum, and salt. Set aside.
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In small bowl, whisk together warm water and 1 teaspoon sugar until sugar dissolves. Add yeast. Whisk until yeast dissolves. Set aside until doubled in size, about 5 minutes. (If yeast doesn’t bubble and double in size, it means the yeast is dead. Discard it and start with a new packet of yeast.)
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Add warm milk, egg, melted butter, and vanilla extract to the yeast mixture. Pour milk-yeast mixture over the whisked dry ingredients. Stir, using a wooden spoon, until a stiff dough ball forms. Generously flour your countertop and turn sticky dough out onto counter. Dust dough with white rice flour and knead dough until smooth, about 1 minute. Lightly oil a medium bowl. Place dough in oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and allow dough to double in size, about 2 hours.
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For the Apples: In large cast iron or stainless steel skillet, combine butter and dark brown sugar. Melt butter and sugar over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Add apples and stir to combine. Cook until apples darken slightly and just begin to soften. In a small bowl, whisk together cider and cornstarch. Pour cider over the apples. Stir. Bring to a boil and cook until thick, about 3 minutes. Transfer apples to a bowl and allow to cool.
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When dough doubles in size, punch down or stir with a rice floured wooden spoon. Stir in cooled apple mixture. Cover and allow to rise until dough almost doubles in size, about 1 hour.
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To Fry: Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Heat oil in a 12-inch cast iron skillet, Dutch oven, or wok to 350°F (175°C). Adjust flame during cooking to maintain temperature. Using two spoons, carefully drop balls of dough about 2 tablespoons each into the oil. Cook until edges turn golden brown. Turn and repeat. Using a wire skimmer, remove fritters from hot oil. Place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat until all the dough is fried.
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Prepare the glaze: whisk together confectioner’s sugar, half and half, and vanilla extract. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Place a wire rack over the baking sheet. One by one, dip the fritters into the glaze. Shake excess glaze off and place fritters on wire rack.
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Fritters are best served the day they are made but may be held overnight. Store leftover fritters on a plate and cover with plastic wrap.
Special Equipment
Notes
Chebe mix, which contains modified manioc starch, adds important elasticity to this recipe. It can be ordered online.
| Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
|---|---|
| 394 | Calories |
| 17g | Fat |
| 57g | Carbs |
| 5g | Protein |
| Nutrition Facts | |
|---|---|
| Servings: 8 to 12 | |
| Amount per serving | |
| Calories | 394 |
| % Daily Value* | |
| Total Fat 17g | 22% |
| Saturated Fat 6g | 30% |
| Cholesterol 37mg | 12% |
| Sodium 251mg | 11% |
| Total Carbohydrate 57g | 21% |
| Dietary Fiber 2g | 9% |
| Total Sugars 35g | |
| Protein 5g | |
| Vitamin C 7mg | 36% |
| Calcium 85mg | 7% |
| Iron 1mg | 3% |
| Potassium 165mg | 4% |
| *The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. | |